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This section is a collection of miscellaneous items that were done on the conversion with a picture and a description for each. These are not covered in other catagories.


100_1224_320 Plug Sticking Out
100_1225_320  Plug Contained
100_1226_320  Inside with Recepticle

The shore power connection is 15 amps. No need for a 30 amp connection for my application. Wanted the connection located at the driver door so it is visable when entering driver seat. Found a cord path from outside under the driver door up inside the "B" pillar into the van interior. A 12/3 extention cord was purchased and the female end was cut off. Kept the molded male end.

Used an existing hole under the van into the pillar. Removed the rubber plug and installed a rubber grommet in that hole. There is another hole inside the van close to the floor behind the driver's seat. The inside hole needed to be enlarged for the rubber grommet. An aluminum angle hanger was fabricated and a 1/4-20NC prebulbed insert was installed in an existing hole in the Transit to mount the angle. Hanger keeps the cord out of sight when not in use. Cord hangs down about 6" below the van side when not hooked on the hanger. After connecting to shore power the connected cords are then put back into the hanger to keep the connection out of the weather.

Inside the van the cord connects to a 3 position Blue Sea # 9009 selector switch. Switch selects Shore power or 120 volt AC power from the vehicle powered pure sine 1000 watt inverter or off. After the selector switch there is a two pole 15 amp circuit breaker.


100_1213_320 Door Holes Before
100_1214_320  Door Holes Filled
100_1215_320  Door Handles Installed

The right rear door does not have any easy way to close the door from inside the van. Nothing to use to pull the door closed. Added a plastic door handle using two existing holes in the door frame. The holes are spaced about 4 5/8" apart and are the correct size for 1/4–20NC prebulbed inserts. Installed two inserts and found a plastic handle that matched the hole centers.

The inserts used were Penn Engineering part # AES25P280PBZYR. Another insert choice is steel Plusnuts part # RN2520280PNB. The install tool used was purchased from McMaster­Carr and is part # 96349A555 ­ 1/4–20. The tool bolt needs to be changed to a longer bolt because the prebulbed inserts are linger than normal nutserts. Replace bolt with a 1/4–20NC x 2 1/2" long bolt.

The handle used was purchased from T­Slots. Item # 655059. It is designed for 5/16­18NC screws with a center distance of 4.80". Worked fine with the socket head 1/4–20NC screws with a flat washer. Similiar handle is available from 80/20 and is part # 2061 which may also work. Different center distance but would probably work.


100_1419_320  Door Handles Installed
100_1228_320 Door Holes Before

Needed something to use to pull myself up into the van. Saw the tapped hole in the right rear door frame at the right location about 40" above the van floor. It is a 10 mm tapped hole. Used a 10 mm dia. x 120 mm long bolt. Made a 3/4" dia. x 3 3/4" long wood dowel spacer by drilling a 13/32" hole through the wood dowel. Put a flat washer between the bolt head and the dowel. Tightened the bolt and then put a rubber bicycle handlebar grip on the post. Had to shorten the rubbergrip.

A 3/8-16NC x 4" bolt will also work. Threads are a bit sloppy but by adding a nut at the door frame it is rigid.


100_1230_320 Bungee
100_1231_320 Bungee

Items stored on the overhead shelf above the windshied kept falling out. Installed a 5' long bungee cord across the front of the shelf. Put the metal hook ends into the slot of the front shelf hangers.

Added wood blocks at the bottom of the slots to keep the bungy cord higher up. Now stuff stays in the shelf.


100_1221_320 Door Holes Before
100_1222_320  Door Holes Filled
100_1223_320  Door Handles Installed

The van has 3 windows in the cargo area. The slider and the two rear door windows. In order to reduce heat loss and for privacy, Reflectix inserts were made to cover the windows. On the Transit there are slots between the glass and the inside metal window frame. The Reflectix thickness is correct to fit in the slots. Cut a cardboard pattern of each window opening. Using a marker pen the slot locations were marked on the cardboard. In some locations the slot is continuous and in others it is just a short opening. When cutting out the Reflectix, tabs were added to fit in the slots. The tabs extend out 1" from the window edge into the slots. Used the Reflectix silver tape to seal the tab edges. Did not seal the Reflectix that does not have tabs. Covers are easy to install and remove. Covers are stored behind the Murphy bed panels.


100_1417_320  Door Holes Filled

Put different color Velcro straps on the steering wheel so I remember to close the roof vent and/or disconnect from shore power. Black for the roof vent and red for shore power. Other color straps could be added for additional reminders.


100_1467_320  Panel Picture
100_1468_320 Panel Picture
100_1469_320  Panel Picture

The stock Transit wiring duct needed to be raised up so it would be inside the rear overhead cabinet. Removed and discarded the stock witing duct pieces. Replaced the stock duct with Panduit solid wall 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" wiring duct with snap on cover. Duct part # FS1.5 x 1.5LG6 and the CI 1.5LG6 snap on cover. Equivalent wireway from McMaster-Carr is part # 69865K42.

Had to reroute some wiring at the rear lower left in the van wall to get enough slack to raise up the loom. Used aluminum pop rivits in back half of left wall to mount the wireway. The front half of the wall must be boron steel because I could not drill holes in it. Used three existing holes to install 1/4-20NC inserts to bolt the front part of the wireway to the wall.

The Panduit wireway is grey so it blends into the grey van color.


100_1498_320  Panel Picture
100_1022_320 Panel Picture
100_1023_320  Panel Picture

The van can be leveled at a camp site using Lynx plastic blocks. The blocks are 8 1/2" square and 1" thick and sold at WalMart. The blocks are stacked to provide a spacer between the tire and the ground. The question is how many blocks are required at three of the tires to level the van. Instead of trial and error, there is a method that can determine how many are required.

The method of leveling the van at a campsite is to use a two direction level mounted on a board that is 1/16 the size of the van tread and wheelbase. Park the van at the location desired. Put the scale model board on the sink counter. Stack flat 1/16" thick washers under three of the corners to level the board. The 1/16" thick washers are 1/16 the thickness of the 1" Lynx blocks. Count the number of washers needed to level the board. The number of washers is the number of Lynx blocks required at the three tires. The boards width and length are determined by the van tread and wheelbase dimensions of the van. The board width is the van tread width divided by 16 plus 7/8". The length of the board is the van wheelbase divided by 16 plus 7/8". Buy some 1/16" thick flat washers. My washers are 7/8" diameter which is why you add 7/8" to each dimension. The Transit tread width is 69" and the wheelbase is 147.6".

Board width is (69"/16) + 7/8" = 4 3/8" + 7/8" = 5 1/4"

Board length is (147.6"/16) + 7/8" = 9.25" + 7/8" = 10 1/8"

The board width and length are 1/16 the width and length of the van plus the washer diameter. So center of washer to center of washer is 1/16 the tread and wheelbase of the van. The 1/16" thick washer is 1/16 the thickness of the Lynx blocks.

Put the van in the location you want to park and use the leveling board to determine the number of Lynx blocks required. Move the van forward or backwards and stack the number of Lynx spacers equal to the number of washers stacked under the leveling board at three of the tires. Move van back to its original location on top of the Lynx blocks.

The distance to move the van so it is centered on the blocks can be determined with a vertical wood dowel with a flat plate at the bottom to keep the dowel standing up on its end. I used a 1/2" dowel with a 1/2" bore v-belt pulley at the bottom. Dowel length should about match the distance from the ground to the top driver door step. Before moving the van on top of the blocks, measure the distance you need to move it to put the tire at the center of the blocks. All blocks need to be the same distance from the tire centerlines. Put a pencil down on the driver's door step. Locate the dowel along side the van the same distance from the pencil that you need to move the van to be on top of the blocks. Move the van to line up the pencil with the dowel and van will be centered on the blocks.

Method allows one person to level van without multiple tries.